Hemlock #1, Archer #2

Once again, in honor of Me Made May, I am not participating in the strictest sense of the word, but playing along by wearing handmade as I usually do, and using this month as an opportunity to post a couple FO's that I haven't blogged about.

Hemlock #1.  I accidentally printed this pattern off at 92% (oops - public library printer settings!), but that gave me a shirt with a bust measurement of 40" or 4" positive ease, which seemed like enough for me.  Shortened the sleeves and the hem, and flipped the neck binding on its side for the contrast-y stripey look.  My friend said, "You made that?  It looks great - like you could've gotten it at Gap for $80."  Is that really how much they're charging these days?  It's a good thing I'm making my own clothing.  This is a lovely, soft and drapey cotton striped fabric that I'd originally intended for a summer dress, but let's be honest - I'll get a lot more use out of it this way as it layers well under cardigans, making this a 2- or 3-season garment instead of just one.  It's super comfortable and fun to wear around - Jen's patterns are really growing on me.

Archer #2.  Apparently, as I seem to continue making Grainline pattern after Grainline pattern.  My second Archer, also refashioned from a thrifted men's button down.  It's amazing how fast these things go when you salvage the button band, hem, and collar stand with collar still attached.  Like 40% of the time, really.  You can't see it too well in these photos, but I even left the pocket on (and, ha, the tag!  This was not designed in France.)  I like that it has a bit of a menswear-y vibe going, something about the pocket and the hem length.

I had a brain fart about which was the right side of the fabric when making the pleat in the back, and figured, what the heck, we'll call it a design feature because I don't feel like pulling out my seam ripper.  Do you ever do that?  I'm getting better about not being so nitpicky about my sewing, especially when it comes to the "nice to, not need to" elements.

Ran out of fabric for the yoke, so I used my favorite Liberty fabric ever instead.  It provides a nice little contrast pop that makes me smile every time I see this shirt.

Hope you're having a wonderful May!

Handstitched Undergarments

In the last four months or so, I’ve stitched up a number of undergarments.

Leggings, using this tutorial that Ali swears by.  I can see why she’s made up four pairs of leggings from this pattern.  The drafting is straightforward but fun, and the pattern is easily customizable to include a calf measurement should your calves be wider than your knees, as mine are.  Other great things about these leggings: cuddly soft bamboo, and no more uncomfortable waistbands digging into my sides!  I’ve already got two more pairs cut out, which should tell you something.

Tap pants, using this 1930s pattern.  These are scrumptuously decadent, frivolous, luxurious, and impractical – when I wear them over in lieu of a half slip, I have to undo four pairs of snaps every time I go to the bathroom.  And yet, in the last 2 winters I have yet to wear my half slip once, whereas the instant I finished these up I wore them three times in a single week.  That’s sayin’ something.  Also, at a mere half yard of silk charmeuse, they’re a lovely way to slip a little treat into your daily life.

I’ve also been playing with Ohhh Lulu’s underwear patterns.  This is the Lola pattern, which I love in theory.  I especially love the look of stretch lace in the back.  However, this pattern needs a backside that is smaller and perkier than mine is, and as it has been 15 years since my tush was that small or perky, I will be retiring this pattern.

One reason I started sewing underwear was that I felt guilty about all my jersey scraps.  At least with wovens I can delude myself into thinking that one day I’ll use my extras as facings, pockets, linings, or in a quilt.  Underwear makes good use of those itty bitty leftovers – and since the Grace panties only use jersey for the side panels, I can use up ever smaller bits and bobs.  Sweet!  Also, this pattern uses not just jerseys scraps but woven scraps as well.  These are so much fun to make up.  I’ve seen a number of elegant versions online, but I happen to be partial to color explosions.  I admit I wouldn’t wear these day in and day out; the woven sections, though cut on the bias, doesn’t quite feel the same as pure jersey.  Still, once or twice a week they’re fun to reach for.  There will definitely be more of these.